StudSheet Sheets General contracting · Sheet S-08

Basement finishing calculator

28′ × 25′ basement: 657 sq ft finished, 108 studs, 36 sheets of drywall and 188 ceiling panels, with foam on the walls. Foam, framing, drywall, a drop ceiling and the floor — in the order the inspector wants it.

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Sheet S-08 · Finish a basement

28′ × 25′ basement

PRO STEP

Plan + wall section

Area: 657sq ft finished
Studs: 1082×4, all walls
Drywall: 364×8 sheets
Ceiling: 1882×2 panels

Tools you need

Hygrometer
Tape measure (25 ft)
Carpenter's pencil
Chalk line
Speed square
4-ft level

41 tools on the Sheet, each marked own, buy or rent

What to buy 39 lines, each with its math
Buy	Item	How we got this
30 sheets	Rigid foam board 1″ (R-5)4×8 sheets	848 sq ft of foundation wall (106′ × 8′) + 10% for cuts ÷ 32 sq ft per sheet.
26 tubes	Foamboard adhesive10 oz tube	3/16″ beads about 9″ apart (makers say 6–12″) = about 43 ft of bead per 4×8 sheet × 30 sheets + 10%. A 10 oz tube lays about 55 ft of 3/16″ bead. Brace the boards or use cap fasteners until the adhesive cures — follow your adhesive’s label.
238 ft	Foam board seam tape	A vertical seam every 4 ft + 10%.
4 cans	Spray foam, gaps and cracks12 oz cans	Corners, pipe holes and the gap at the top of the foam.
4 cans	Fireblock sealant (fire-rated foam)12 oz can	Top of the wall cavities where they meet the joists, and around soffits and pipe holes (IRC R302.11) — about 30 ft per can.
93 studs	2×42×4 × 8′	84 studs at 16″ on center along 4 foundation walls (28′ + 25′ + 28′ + 25′), one at each end of every wall + 10% for warped boards. Cut to about 93″.
8 boards	Pressure-treated 2×4treated 2×4 × 16′	Pressure-treated because it sits on the slab (IRC decay protection). One continuous plate per wall, joined over a stud on long walls.
8 boards	2×42×4 × 16′	Single top plate fastened to the joists or to blocking between them.
5 boards	2×42×4 × 8′, cut to 14½″	28 blocks between the joists above the walls that run parallel to them, one every 24″, so the top plate has wood to grab.
15 studs	2×42×4 × 8′	New interior walls, 12′ long: Layout: 10 studs at 16″ on center over 12′ − 2 replaced at the door opening + 2 king + 2 jack + 1 cut into a header and 2 cripples = 13. Plus 10% for warped boards. Cut each stud to fit (about 93″).
1 board	Pressure-treated 2×4treated 2×4 × 12′	New interior walls, 12′ long: One continuous plate for 12′. Pressure-treated because it sits on a concrete slab (IRC decay protection). Cut it out inside the doorway after the wall is fastened.
1 board	2×42×4 × 12′	New interior walls, 12′ long: Single top plate — the IRC allows one on non-bearing interior walls.
≈702 screws (8 boxes of 100)	3″ framing screws#9 or #10, exterior-rated	4 per stud, plus top-plate fastening to joists or blocking, for every new wall. With a framing nailer, use 16d nails instead.
67 pins (1 pack of 100)	Powder-actuated pins + loads2½″ pins + .27-cal loads	Bottom plates pinned to the slab: one every 24″ and near each end. (Or pre-drill and use concrete screws.)
5 tubes	Construction adhesive10 oz tube	A ¼″ bead under every bottom plate on concrete — about 25 ft per tube.
13 boxes	Electrical boxesper your electrician	10 outlets + 3 switch locations (one per 6 lights and one by each door). Cable size and circuits are the electrician’s call.
10 lights	Recessed LED lightsdrop-ceiling rated	Your count. About one per 50–70 sq ft gives even light in a basement (66 sq ft each here).
764 sq ft (buy by the coverage printed on the bag)	Unfaced fiberglass batts R-13, 15″ wideunfaced, 15″ × 93″	848 sq ft of framed wall minus about 10% for studs and plates.
36 sheets	Moisture-resistant drywall ½″4×8 sheets	848 sq ft of foundation walls + 153 sq ft of partitions (both sides, doors removed) + 12% for cuts ÷ 32 sq ft per sheet. It also covers the foam, which the IRC requires (½″ drywall over foam plastic).
≈1109 screws (5 lb boxes)	Drywall screws, coarse thread1¼″ coarse thread	7 studs or joists behind each sheet × 4 screws per stud on walls (16″ apart) and 5 per joist on ceilings (12″ apart), USG spacing, + 10%. About 250 per lb.
3 pails	All-purpose joint compound4.5-gal pail (≈62 lb)	10 gal: about 10 gal per 1,000 sq ft of board (USG), three coats.
2 rolls	Paper joint tape250 ft roll	370 ft: about 370 ft per 1,000 sq ft of board (USG).
12 pieces	Wall molding, 12 ft	126′ 8″ of wall (both sides of the partitions too — the grid stops at each one) + 5% ÷ 12 ft.
15 pieces	Main beam, 12 ft	6 main-beam lines, 4 ft apart and centered so the border panels match on both sides, × 27′ 2″ each + 5%, spliced — start each line with the leftover from the last.
91 pieces	Cross tee, 4 ft	13 rows of tees, 2 ft apart, × 7 tees per row (border tees are cut from full ones).
84 pieces	Cross tee, 2 ft	One in the middle of each 2×4 opening to make 2×2 openings.
188 panels (border panels are cut from full ones)	Ceiling panels2×2	13 × 14 openings, counting every cut border opening as a full panel, plus a cut row along the partitions. Buy 2–3 spares.
48 hangers	Grid hanger hooks (or 12-ga wire + eye screws)hooks or wire	One every 4 ft along each main line plus one at each end — never more than 4 ft apart.
≈95 screws (1 box of 100)	Self-tapping screws #8 × 1″	One into every stud the wall molding crosses (16″ apart).
37 boxes	Luxury vinyl plank (LVP)≈20 sq ft per box (check yours)	657 sq ft + 10% for cuts ÷ 20 sq ft per box. Use the coverage printed on your box.
1 pack	Expansion spacers ¼″	Hold the ¼″ expansion gap at every wall.
1 door	Pre-hung interior door32″, to match the rough opening	One per opening framed in the partitions.
6 pieces	Door casing, 7 ft7 ft lengths	Three pieces per side, two sides per door.
1 bundle	Wood shimsbundle of about 40	Behind each hinge and the latch: about 8 per door, so a bundle does 5 doors.
18 pieces	Baseboard8 ft lengths	124 ft along the finished walls and both sides of the partitions (doors removed) + 10% for miters. Nail it to the wall, never through the floating floor.
1 five-gallon bucket	Drywall primer (PVA)1 coat	1001 sq ft of new drywall ÷ 300 sq ft/gal = 3.34 gal. New drywall needs PVA primer so the paint dries evenly.
1 five-gallon bucket + 1 gallon	Wall painteggshell, 2 coats	1001 sq ft × 2 coats ÷ 350 sq ft/gal = 5.72 gal.
3 tubes	Painter’s acrylic caulk (paintable)	Top edge of baseboard and casing — about 50 ft per tube.
1 alarm	Combination smoke + CO alarmhardwired or 10-year sealed, per your inspector	One on the basement level (IRC R314, R315; R310 and R311 in the 2024 IRC). Hardwired alarms go in at the electrical rough-in.

Sheet S-08 · Finish a basement

8.53 m × 7.62 m basement

PRO STEP

Plan + wall section

Area: 61.0m² finished
Studs: 1082×4, all walls
Drywall: 364×8 sheets
Ceiling: 1882×2 panels

Tools you need

Hygrometer
Tape measure (7.5 m)
Carpenter's pencil
Chalk line
Speed square
1.2 m level

41 tools on the Sheet, each marked own, buy or rent

What to buy 39 lines, each with its math
Buy	Item	How we got this
30 sheets	Rigid foam board 25 mm (R-5)4×8 sheets	78.8 m² of foundation wall (32.31 m × 2.44 m) + 10% for cuts ÷ 3.0 m² per sheet.
26 tubes	Foamboard adhesive300 mL tube	5 mm beads about 229 mm apart (makers say 152–305 mm) = about 13.11 m of bead per 4×8 sheet × 30 sheets + 10%. A 300 mL tube lays about 16.76 m of 5 mm bead. Brace the boards or use cap fasteners until the adhesive cures — follow your adhesive’s label.
72.54 m	Foam board seam tape	A vertical seam every 1.22 m + 10%.
4 cans	Spray foam, gaps and cracks340 g cans	Corners, pipe holes and the gap at the top of the foam.
4 cans	Fireblock sealant (fire-rated foam)340 g can	Top of the wall cavities where they meet the joists, and around soffits and pipe holes — about 9.14 m per can.
93 studs	2×42×4 × 2.44 m	84 studs at 406 mm on center along 4 foundation walls (8.53 m + 7.62 m + 8.53 m + 7.62 m), one at each end of every wall + 10% for warped boards. Cut to about 2.36 m.
8 boards	Pressure-treated 2×4treated 2×4 × 4.88 m	Pressure-treated because it sits on the slab. One continuous plate per wall, joined over a stud on long walls.
8 boards	2×42×4 × 4.88 m	Single top plate fastened to the joists or to blocking between them.
5 boards	2×42×4 × 2.44 m, cut to 368 mm	28 blocks between the joists above the walls that run parallel to them, one every 610 mm, so the top plate has wood to grab.
15 studs	2×42×4 × 2.44 m	New interior walls, 3.66 m long: Layout: 10 studs at 406 mm on center over 3.66 m − 2 replaced at the door opening + 2 king + 2 jack + 1 cut into a header and 2 cripples = 13. Plus 10% for warped boards. Cut each stud to fit (about 2.36 m).
1 board	Pressure-treated 2×4treated 2×4 × 3.66 m	New interior walls, 3.66 m long: One continuous plate for 3.66 m. Pressure-treated because it sits on a concrete slab. Cut it out inside the doorway after the wall is fastened.
1 board	2×42×4 × 3.66 m	New interior walls, 3.66 m long: Single top plate: building codes usually allow one on a non-bearing interior wall — ask your building department.
≈702 screws (8 boxes of 100)	76 mm framing screws#9 or #10, exterior-rated	4 per stud, plus top-plate fastening to joists or blocking, for every new wall. With a framing nailer, use 16d nails instead.
67 pins (1 pack of 100)	Powder-actuated pins + loads64 mm pins + .27-cal loads	Bottom plates pinned to the slab: one every 610 mm and near each end. (Or pre-drill and use concrete screws.)
5 tubes	Construction adhesive300 mL tube	A 6 mm bead under every bottom plate on concrete — about 7.62 m per tube.
13 boxes	Electrical boxesper your electrician	10 outlets + 3 switch locations (one per 6 lights and one by each door). Cable size and circuits are the electrician’s call.
10 lights	Recessed LED lightsdrop-ceiling rated	Your count. About one per 4.6–6.5 m² gives even light in a basement (6.1 m² each here).
10 bags (7.3 m² each)	Batts R-14 (or R-12), 381 × 1194 mmR-14 (R-12 also fits 2×4), 381 × 1194 mm	78.8 m² of framed wall minus about 10% for studs and plates = 71.0 m². Batts 1.19 m long, two per 2.44 m stud bay; a bag of 381 mm × 1.19 m R-14 covers 7.3 m² — check yours.
36 sheets	Moisture-resistant drywall 13 mm4×8 sheets	78.8 m² of foundation walls + 14.2 m² of partitions (both sides, doors removed) + 12% for cuts ÷ 3.0 m² per sheet. It also covers the foam: codes require a thermal barrier over foam plastic.
≈1109 screws (2.3 kg)	Drywall screws, coarse thread32 mm coarse thread	7 studs or joists behind each sheet × 4 screws per stud on walls (406 mm apart) and 5 per joist on ceilings (305 mm apart), USG spacing, + 10%. About 550 per kg.
3 pails	All-purpose joint compound17 L pail (≈28 kg)	37.9 L: about 1 L per 2.5 m² of board (USG), three coats.
2 rolls	Paper joint tape76.2 m roll	112.89 m: about 1.2 m per m² of board (USG).
12 pieces	Wall molding, 3.66 m	38.61 m of wall (both sides of the partitions too — the grid stops at each one) + 5% ÷ 3.66 m.
15 pieces	Main beam, 3.66 m	6 main-beam lines, 1.22 m apart and centered so the border panels match on both sides, × 8.28 m each + 5%, spliced — start each line with the leftover from the last.
91 pieces	Cross tee, 1.22 m	13 rows of tees, 610 mm apart, × 7 tees per row (border tees are cut from full ones).
84 pieces	Cross tee, 610 mm	One in the middle of each 2×4 opening to make 2×2 openings.
188 panels (border panels are cut from full ones)	Ceiling panels2×2	13 × 14 openings, counting every cut border opening as a full panel, plus a cut row along the partitions. Buy 2–3 spares.
48 hangers	Grid hanger hooks (or 12-ga wire + eye screws)hooks or wire	One every 1.22 m along each main line plus one at each end — never more than 1.22 m apart.
≈95 screws (1 box of 100)	Self-tapping screws #8 × 25 mm	One into every stud the wall molding crosses (406 mm apart).
37 boxes	Luxury vinyl plank (LVP)≈1.9 m² per box (check yours)	61.0 m² + 10% for cuts ÷ 1.9 m² per box. Use the coverage printed on your box.
1 pack	Expansion spacers 6 mm	Hold the 6 mm expansion gap at every wall.
1 door	Pre-hung interior door813 mm, to match the rough opening	One per opening framed in the partitions.
6 pieces	Door casing, 2.13 m2.13 m lengths	Three pieces per side, two sides per door.
1 bundle	Wood shimsbundle of about 40	Behind each hinge and the latch: about 8 per door, so a bundle does 5 doors.
18 pieces	Baseboard2.44 m lengths	37.80 m along the finished walls and both sides of the partitions (doors removed) + 10% for miters. Nail it to the wall, never through the floating floor.
1 × 18.9 L	Drywall primer (PVA)1 coat	93.0 m² of new drywall ÷ 27.9 m² per 3.78 L = 12.6 L. New drywall needs PVA primer so the paint dries evenly.
1 × 18.9 L + 1 × 3.78 L	Wall painteggshell, 2 coats	93.0 m² × 2 coats ÷ 32.5 m² per 3.78 L = 21.7 L.
3 tubes	Painter’s acrylic caulk (paintable)	Top edge of baseboard and casing — about 15.24 m per tube.
1 alarm	Combination smoke + CO alarmhardwired or 10-year sealed, per your inspector	One on the basement level. Hardwired alarms go in at the electrical rough-in.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 01What to buy (28′ × 25′ basement)

What to buy (28′ × 25′ basement)

Every line shows the quantity to buy and how StudSheet got it: the spacing, the waste and the package size, so you can check it before the supply house or the quote.

Buy	Material	How StudSheet counts it	What it is for
30 sheets	Rigid foam board 1″ (R-5) (4×8 sheets)	848 sq ft of foundation wall (106′ × 8′) + 10% for cuts ÷ 32 sq ft per sheet.	Extruded polystyrene (XPS) glued to the concrete. Keeps warm room air off the cold wall, so no condensation behind the drywall.
26 tubes	Foamboard adhesive (10 oz tube)	3/16″ beads about 9″ apart (makers say 6–12″) = about 43 ft of bead per 4×8 sheet × 30 sheets + 10%. A 10 oz tube lays about 55 ft of 3/16″ bead. Brace the boards or use cap fasteners until the adhesive cures — follow your adhesive’s label.	Adhesive made for foam. Ordinary solvent-based construction adhesive can melt it.
238 ft	Foam board seam tape	A vertical seam every 4 ft + 10%.	Seals the joints between boards so room air can’t reach the concrete.
4 cans	Spray foam, gaps and cracks (12 oz cans)	Corners, pipe holes and the gap at the top of the foam.	Seals corners, pipe holes and gaps at the top of the foam. Use one labeled safe for foam board.
4 cans	Fireblock sealant (fire-rated foam) (12 oz can)	Top of the wall cavities where they meet the joists, and around soffits and pipe holes (IRC R302.11) — about 30 ft per can.	Seals the top of the wall cavity where it meets the joists, and around soffits. Ordinary canned foam is not a fireblock.
93 studs	2×4 (2×4 × 8′)	84 studs at 16″ on center along 4 foundation walls (28′ + 25′ + 28′ + 25′), one at each end of every wall + 10% for warped boards. Cut to about 93″.	Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
8 boards	Pressure-treated 2×4 (treated 2×4 × 16′)	Pressure-treated because it sits on the slab (IRC decay protection). One continuous plate per wall, joined over a stud on long walls.	Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors.
8 boards	2×4 (2×4 × 16′)	Single top plate fastened to the joists or to blocking between them.	Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
5 boards	2×4 (2×4 × 8′, cut to 14½″)	28 blocks between the joists above the walls that run parallel to them, one every 24″, so the top plate has wood to grab.	Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
15 studs	2×4 (2×4 × 8′)	New interior walls, 12′ long: Layout: 10 studs at 16″ on center over 12′ − 2 replaced at the door opening + 2 king + 2 jack + 1 cut into a header and 2 cripples = 13. Plus 10% for warped boards. Cut each stud to fit (about 93″).	Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
1 board	Pressure-treated 2×4 (treated 2×4 × 12′)	New interior walls, 12′ long: One continuous plate for 12′. Pressure-treated because it sits on a concrete slab (IRC decay protection). Cut it out inside the doorway after the wall is fastened.	Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors.
1 board	2×4 (2×4 × 12′)	New interior walls, 12′ long: Single top plate — the IRC allows one on non-bearing interior walls.	Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″.
≈702 screws (8 boxes of 100)	3″ framing screws (#9 or #10, exterior-rated)	4 per stud, plus top-plate fastening to joists or blocking, for every new wall. With a framing nailer, use 16d nails instead.	Construction screws for framing by hand. (16d nails if you use a nailer.)
67 pins (1 pack of 100)	Powder-actuated pins + loads (2½″ pins + .27-cal loads)	Bottom plates pinned to the slab: one every 24″ and near each end. (Or pre-drill and use concrete screws.)	2½″ drive pins with .27-caliber loads for plates on concrete.
5 tubes	Construction adhesive (10 oz tube)	A ¼″ bead under every bottom plate on concrete — about 25 ft per tube.	Glue bead under plates; stops squeaks and creep.
13 boxes	Electrical boxes (per your electrician)	10 outlets + 3 switch locations (one per 6 lights and one by each door). Cable size and circuits are the electrician’s call.	One per outlet and switch. Your electrician confirms box type and size.
10 lights	Recessed LED lights (drop-ceiling rated)	Your count. About one per 50–70 sq ft gives even light in a basement (66 sq ft each here).	Rated for your ceiling type (drop-in panel lights or canless wafers).
764 sq ft (buy by the coverage printed on the bag)	Unfaced fiberglass batts R-13, 15″ wide (unfaced, 15″ × 93″)	848 sq ft of framed wall minus about 10% for studs and plates.	Fills 2×4 cavities spaced 16″ on center. Unfaced: no plastic or paper vapor barrier against basement foam.
36 sheets	Moisture-resistant drywall ½″ (4×8 sheets)	848 sq ft of foundation walls + 153 sq ft of partitions (both sides, doors removed) + 12% for cuts ÷ 32 sq ft per sheet. It also covers the foam, which the IRC requires (½″ drywall over foam plastic).	For baths and basements — not for inside showers.
≈1109 screws (5 lb boxes)	Drywall screws, coarse thread (1¼″ coarse thread)	7 studs or joists behind each sheet × 4 screws per stud on walls (16″ apart) and 5 per joist on ceilings (12″ apart), USG spacing, + 10%. About 250 per lb.	Coarse thread bites wood studs.
3 pails	All-purpose joint compound (4.5-gal pail (≈62 lb))	10 gal: about 10 gal per 1,000 sq ft of board (USG), three coats.	Premixed “mud” for taping and finish coats.
2 rolls	Paper joint tape (250 ft roll)	370 ft: about 370 ft per 1,000 sq ft of board (USG).	Bedded in mud over seams and inside corners.
12 pieces	Wall molding, 12 ft	126′ 8″ of wall (both sides of the partitions too — the grid stops at each one) + 5% ÷ 12 ft.	L-shaped edge trim screwed to the studs; holds the outside of the grid.
15 pieces	Main beam, 12 ft	6 main-beam lines, 4 ft apart and centered so the border panels match on both sides, × 27′ 2″ each + 5%, spliced — start each line with the leftover from the last.	The backbone of the grid. Runs across the joists and hangs from them.
91 pieces	Cross tee, 4 ft	13 rows of tees, 2 ft apart, × 7 tees per row (border tees are cut from full ones).	Clicks into the main beams every 2 ft.
84 pieces	Cross tee, 2 ft	One in the middle of each 2×4 opening to make 2×2 openings.	Splits each 2×4 opening into two 2×2 openings.
188 panels (border panels are cut from full ones)	Ceiling panels (2×2)	13 × 14 openings, counting every cut border opening as a full panel, plus a cut row along the partitions. Buy 2–3 spares.	Lay-in panels. PVC or moisture-resistant mineral fiber suit basements.
48 hangers	Grid hanger hooks (or 12-ga wire + eye screws) (hooks or wire)	One every 4 ft along each main line plus one at each end — never more than 4 ft apart.	Hold each main beam up from the joists, no more than 4 ft apart.
≈95 screws (1 box of 100)	Self-tapping screws #8 × 1″	One into every stud the wall molding crosses (16″ apart).	Fasten the metal wall molding to the studs without pre-drilling.
37 boxes	Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) (≈20 sq ft per box (check yours))	657 sq ft + 10% for cuts ÷ 20 sq ft per box. Use the coverage printed on your box.	Click-together waterproof planks that float over the subfloor.
1 pack	Expansion spacers ¼″	Hold the ¼″ expansion gap at every wall.	Hold the gap at walls while you install.
1 door	Pre-hung interior door (32″, to match the rough opening)	One per opening framed in the partitions.	Door already hung in its frame — the easiest kind to install.
6 pieces	Door casing, 7 ft (7 ft lengths)	Three pieces per side, two sides per door.	Trim around each side of a door frame.
1 bundle	Wood shims (bundle of about 40)	Behind each hinge and the latch: about 8 per door, so a bundle does 5 doors.	Plumb and level the door frame in the rough opening.
18 pieces	Baseboard (8 ft lengths)	124 ft along the finished walls and both sides of the partitions (doors removed) + 10% for miters. Nail it to the wall, never through the floating floor.	New base trim.
1 five-gallon bucket	Drywall primer (PVA) (1 coat)	1001 sq ft of new drywall ÷ 300 sq ft/gal = 3.34 gal. New drywall needs PVA primer so the paint dries evenly.	Seals new drywall so the paint dries evenly.
1 five-gallon bucket + 1 gallon	Wall paint (eggshell, 2 coats)	1001 sq ft × 2 coats ÷ 350 sq ft/gal = 5.72 gal.	Interior latex.
3 tubes	Painter’s acrylic caulk (paintable)	Top edge of baseboard and casing — about 50 ft per tube.	Fills gaps between trim and wall.
1 alarm	Combination smoke + CO alarm (hardwired or 10-year sealed, per your inspector)	One on the basement level (IRC R314, R315; R310 and R311 in the 2024 IRC). Hardwired alarms go in at the electrical rough-in.	For the basement level. Ask your inspector whether it must be hardwired and interconnected.

In Canada (8.53 m × 7.62 m basement)

Set to Canada, the Sheet works the job out again for Ontario: metric sizes, bag sizes, the frost depth and the code notes. It doesn't just convert feet to meters. The first lines:

30 sheets, Rigid foam board 25 mm (R-5): 78.8 m² of foundation wall (32.31 m × 2.44 m) + 10% for cuts ÷ 3.0 m² per sheet.
26 tubes, Foamboard adhesive: 5 mm beads about 229 mm apart (makers say 152–305 mm) = about 13.11 m of bead per 4×8 sheet × 30 sheets + 10%. A 300 mL tube lays about 16.76 m of 5 mm bead. Brace the boards or use cap fasteners until the adhesive cures — follow your adhesive’s label.
72.54 m, Foam board seam tape: A vertical seam every 1.22 m + 10%.
4 cans, Spray foam, gaps and cracks: Corners, pipe holes and the gap at the top of the foam.
4 cans, Fireblock sealant (fire-rated foam): Top of the wall cavities where they meet the joists, and around soffits and pipe holes — about 9.14 m per can.
93 studs, 2×4: 84 studs at 406 mm on center along 4 foundation walls (8.53 m + 7.62 m + 8.53 m + 7.62 m), one at each end of every wall + 10% for warped boards. Cut to about 2.36 m.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 02The steps, in order

The steps, in order

Fix water first: downspouts, grading, cracks — and a waterproofing contractor if it leaks after rain. Run a dehumidifier.
Draw the floor plan to scale with every wall, outlet, light and plumbing stub, and apply for the permits.
Glue rigid foam to the foundation walls, tape the seams, seal the corners, and spray-foam the rim joist (rigid board there must be covered with drywall).
Frame the walls: treated bottom plate pinned to the slab, top plate to the joists or blocking, studs 16″ on center, plumb with a level.
Fireblock the top of the walls where they meet the joists. Electrical rough-in (boxes, cable, lights, smoke and CO alarms), then the framing and rough-in inspections.
Fill the stud cavities with unfaced batts. Insulation inspection if your town requires one.
Hang drywall ½″ off the floor; tape, three coats of mud, sand, prime.
Drop ceiling: laser the height (leave about 4″ below the joists), screw the wall molding, hang the mains from hangers, click in the tees, square and level, drop in panels.
Prime and paint, then hang the pre-hung doors. Check the slab is flat and click the vinyl plank in with a ¼″ gap at every wall, undercutting the jambs. Baseboard and casing, caulk, touch up. Final inspection.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 03Tools (41)

Tools (41)

Must-have tools first, then the ones that help and the ones to rent for the day.

Tool	Need	Why
Hygrometer	Must have	Check humidity before you close the walls
Tape measure (25 ft)	Must have	The red boxes every 16″ on the blade are stud spacing.
Carpenter's pencil	Must have	Flat, doesn't roll away, marks rough lumber.
Chalk line	Must have	Snaps a long straight line on floors, subfloors and ceilings.
Speed square	Must have	Triangle square for marking square and angled cuts on lumber.
4-ft level	Must have	Checks plumb and level over a long span.
Cross-line laser level	Must have	Sets the plate lines and the ceiling grid height in minutes
Stud finder	Must have	Finds the joists above
Utility knife + blades	Must have	Scores and snaps foam board and drywall
Caulk gun	Must have	Dispenses caulk and adhesive.
Circular saw	Must have	Handheld power saw for lumber and sheet goods.
Miter saw	Must have	Dozens of stud cuts
Impact driver	Must have	Drives long framing and deck screws without stripping.
Cordless drill/driver	Must have	Drills holes, drives screws, mixes small batches.
Framing hammer	Must have	Nails, taps and persuades.
Powder-actuated tool	Rent	Pins plates to the slab (or a hammer drill + concrete screws)
Drywall T-square	Must have	Guides straight, full-width drywall cuts.
Drywall dimpler bit (or screw gun)	Must have	Sets drywall screws just below the paper — no torn paper, no popped heads.
Mud pan	Must have	Holds joint compound while you work.
6″ taping knife	Must have	First coat: bed the tape, fill screw heads.
10–12″ taping knife	Must have	Wide knife for thin, feathered final coats.
Inside-corner trowel	Good to have	Smooths both sides of an inside corner at once.
Sanding sponges	Must have	Low-dust sanding for mud, patches and scuffing old paint.
Pole sander	Good to have	Sands high and wide areas from the floor.
Step ladder (6 ft)	Must have	Reaches 8-ft ceilings safely.
Safety glasses	Must have	Every cut, every nail, every time.
Hearing protection	Must have	Saws and nailers are loud enough to damage hearing.
N95 dust masks	Must have	Drywall sanding and general dust.
Work gloves	Must have	Tack strip, block and lumber shred hands.
Knee pads	Must have	Flooring and tile are all knees.
Shop vac	Must have	Drywall dust gets everywhere
Aviation snips	Must have	Cuts the grid and molding
Torpedo level	Must have	Levels each main beam
Tapping block	Must have	Protects plank edges while you tap joints tight.
Pull bar	Must have	Hooks the last plank so you can tap it tight against the wall.
Rubber mallet	Must have	Taps block, tile and planks into place without damage.
Jamb (undercut) saw	Must have	Undercuts the door jambs and casing so planks slide under
Straightedge (6 ft)	Must have	Checks the slab: 3/16″ in 10 ft
Framing nailer + compressor	Rent	Much faster than screws for this much framing
Brad nailer (18-ga)	Rent	Baseboard and casing
Drywall jab saw	Must have	Box cutouts in drywall

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 04Mistakes and how the math works

Mistakes and how the math works

Mistakes that cost a callback or a second trip

Finishing over water: Every wall you build over a leak is a wall you rip out later. Fix drainage first; finished basements need a dehumidifier.
Plastic vapor barrier on the walls: Poly over foam or behind drywall traps moisture against the wall. Foam on the concrete, unfaced batts, drywall.
Closing walls before the inspection: Framing and rough-in inspections happen with the walls open. Drywall first and the inspector can make you tear it off.

What the calculator assumes

Order of work: water, permits, foam, framing, rough-in, insulation, drywall, ceiling, paint, doors, floor, trim (after the AT Improvements basement guide, with doors before the floating floor).
Rigid foam (XPS) glued to the foundation walls, seams taped, then 2×4 walls 16″ on center in front of it; treated bottom plates on the slab (IRC decay protection).
Foam plastic covered by ½″ drywall as a thermal barrier (IRC R316.4; R303.4 in the 2024 IRC). Spray foam may stay exposed at the rim joist within limits (R316.5.11; R303 in the 2024 IRC). Fireblocking at the top of the walls (R302.11).
New Jersey adopted the 2024 IRC and IECC effective Aug 17, 2026, with a grace period — your permit may use either edition. Ask your town which one.
Basement wall insulation per the IECC: zone 4 R-10 continuous or R-13 cavity; zone 5 R-15 continuous, R-19 cavity, or R-13 + R-5 continuous. Confirm your zone and code edition with the town.
Habitable rooms need a 7 ft ceiling from the finished floor, 6′4″ under beams and ducts (IRC R305; R313 in the 2024 IRC); sleeping rooms need an emergency escape opening (IRC R310; R319 in the 2024 IRC; NJ Rehabilitation Subcode 5:23-6.27 for existing homes).
Smoke alarms on the basement level and in each sleeping room, CO alarm where there are fuel-burning appliances or an attached garage (IRC R314, R315; R310 and R311 in the 2024 IRC).
Floor, ceiling and area use the finished room: concrete-to-concrete minus about 5″ of foam, stud and drywall on each framed wall.
Framing counts use the interior-wall Sheet’s rules (studs at each end and every 16″, +10%; blocking every 24″ where joists run parallel).
Drywall: area + 12% for cuts; screws 16″ apart on walls and 12″ on ceilings (USG); mud ≈ 10 gal and tape ≈ 370 ft per 1,000 sq ft (USG).
Drop ceiling: main beams 4 ft apart and across the joists, tees every 2 ft, hangers no more than 4 ft apart, grid about 4″ below the joists; borders centered; mains spliced with the cut-offs reused.
Paint: PVA primer 300 sq ft/gal over all new drywall, 2 coats at 350 sq ft/gal.
Foam adhesive: 3/16″ beads about 9″ apart, about 55 ft per 10 oz tube.
Electrical and plumbing design (circuits, cable, pipe sizing) is left to the licensed trades.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 05Code, permits and safety

Code, permits and safety

The Sheet sets its code notes for the job's state or province. These are New Jersey's and Ontario's; the code reference has more. Always confirm with your building department.

Expect a construction permit: Finishing a basement creates new rooms, so New Jersey towns require a construction permit, plus electrical and plumbing permits for that work. Plan for framing, rough-in, insulation and final inspections. Call your town’s construction office first.
Electrical: permit, inspection, and usually a pro: In New Jersey the owner of an owner-occupied single-family home may do their own electrical work under a homeowner permit — it has to be you, not a friend — and it is inspected like a pro’s. Most people hire a licensed electrician for the panel and new circuits. Rough-in is inspected before insulation and drywall. Keep 36″ clear in front of the electrical panel (NEC 110.26).
Smoke and CO alarms: A permit to finish the basement triggers smoke alarms where a new home would have them — on the basement level — and a CO alarm if the house has fuel-burning appliances or an attached garage (IRC R314, R315; R310 and R311 in the 2024 IRC; NJ Rehabilitation Subcode). Ask whether they must be hardwired and interconnected.
Expect a building permit: Finishing a basement usually needs a building permit — new rooms or walls, plumbing, new windows — often with separate electrical and plumbing permits. Plan for framing, rough-in, insulation and final inspections. Call your municipality’s building department first.
Check the insulation against the energy code: Ontario (2024 Building Code with SB-12) asks for R-20 continuous on basement walls (RSI 3.52), or R-12 batts + R-10 continuous, over the full height of the wall. Your choice gives R-5 continuous + R-14 cavity. Confirm with your building department.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 06Questions

Questions

What materials do I need to finish a basement?

For the worked example, a 28′ × 25′ basement, the Sheet counts 39 lines with waste included, starting with rigid foam board 1″ (R-5) (30 sheets), foamboard adhesive (26 tubes), foam board seam tape (238 ft), spray foam, gaps and cracks (4 cans). Each line's math is in the table above. Put in your own sizes in the finish a basement calculator and every line is counted again.

How long does it take to finish a basement, and can I do it myself?

About 160 to 239 hours for the worked example, in 9 steps. StudSheet stamps it PRO STEP: dIY with a pro for one step.

What tools do I need to finish a basement?

41 in all. The must-haves start with hygrometer, tape measure (25 ft), carpenter's pencil, chalk line, speed square, 4-ft level. On the Sheet you mark each one as owned, to buy or to rent.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 07Ask about it

Ask about it

Stuck while you finish a basement? Ask in the Basement finishing group of the StudSheet community with this Sheet attached. Homeowners who've done it and verified pros answer, and anyone can read it.

General contracting · Sheet S-08 · 08More general contracting Sheets

More general contracting Sheets

Remodeling and additions for contractors: run this takeoff at your own prices, send the estimate, and get it signed and the deposit paid.
Addition shell (16′ × 12′ addition): For builders: the takeoff for a room addition — excavation, foundation, framing, roof, windows, siding, insulation by zone and drywall, with the permits and inspections.
Mount a TV (65-inch TV, tilting mount): The right mount for your TV and wall, where to put it, what holds it (studs, toggles or masonry anchors) and how to hide the cables.
Re-caulk a tub, shower or sink (Tub, 22 ft of caulk): Old caulk out, mildew killed, backer rod where the gap is wide, and the right silicone — with tubes counted from the joints you have.
All 45 Sheets, across 16 trades.
Code reference: frost depths, guard heights, stairs, retaining walls.

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