# Shower tile calculator

> 5′ tub surround, tiled to 7′: 66 sq ft of wall tile, 2 gal of waterproofing, and the backer board, thinset and grout. Backer board, waterproofing, tile, thinset and grout for a tub surround or a walk-in shower — every seam, corner and pipe sealed.

## What to buy (5′ tub surround, tiled to 7′)

Every line shows the quantity to buy and how StudSheet got it: the spacing, the waste and the package size, so you can check it before the supply house or the quote.

| Buy | Material | How StudSheet counts it | What it is for |
|---|---|---|---|
| **5 sheets** | Cement backer board ½″ (3×5) (½″, 3×5 sheets) | 57.5 sq ft of wall + 10% ÷ 15 sq ft per sheet. | Wall backer for tub and shower tile: doesn’t rot or swell. Screws every 8″, seams taped. |
| **≈225 screws** | Cement board screws 1¼″ | A screw every 8″ into the studs — about 45 a sheet. | Coated screws with ribbed heads. |
| **1 roll** | Alkali-resistant mesh tape 2″ (2″ × 150 ft) | Mesh tape bedded in thinset on every board seam. | For backer-board seams. |
| **2 × 1 gal pail** | Liquid waterproofing membrane (two coats) | 57.5 sq ft of wall + 10% ÷ about 55 sq ft per gallon for both coats = 1.15 gal; the cheaper mix of pails. | Rolled or brushed on in two coats (RedGard or Hydro Ban type): a seamless waterproof skin over cement board. About 55 sq ft per gallon for the full two coats. |
| **1 roll** | Membrane reinforcing fabric (about 75 ft rolls) | 26′ 10″ of corners, seams at the tub and around the niche: fabric bedded in the first coat. | Fabric bedded in the liquid membrane at corners, changes of plane and around pipes, where walls move. |
| **1** | Roller covers 9″ (⅜″ nap) | Rolls the membrane on; a brush does the corners. | Nap length depends on wall texture. |
| **1 niche** | Prefab shower niche (about 12″ × 20″) | Set between two studs, banded into the membrane; its sill slopes out. | A waterproof foam niche (about 12″ × 20″) set between two studs and banded into the membrane. |
| **2 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | Blocking between the studs for grab bars and above and below each niche. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **197 tiles (66 sq ft)** | Wall tile (4×12, porcelain) | 57.5 sq ft of wall (10′ × 5′ 9″) + 1.5 sq ft of niche returns, + 10% for cuts = 195, + 2 spares. Buy from one lot number. | Ceramic or porcelain tile for walls, backsplashes and showers (the floor tile Sheet lists floor tile). |
| **1 bag** | Modified thinset mortar, 50 lb (50 lb bag) | 59 sq ft ÷ 80 sq ft a bag with a ¼″ × ¼″ square notch. Modified thinset over cement board. | Cement-based adhesive that bonds tile. |
| **1 × 10 lb bag** | Sanded grout (1/8″ joints) | Joint volume: (4+12)″ × 1/8″ wide × 5/16″ deep per tile ≈ 1.88 cu in per sq ft × 59 sq ft ≈ 8.3 lb with 15% extra. Sanded for joints ⅛″ and up. | For joints ⅛″ and wider. |
| **1** | Grout sealer (penetrating) | Cement grout soaks up water and soap: seal it once it cures (see the bag), and again every year or two. | Slows staining in cement grout. |
| **1 bag** | Tile spacers (1/8″) | Even joints, and the ⅛″ gap at the tub or base and every corner. | Keep joints even. |
| **3 lengths** | Metal tile edge trim (8′ 2-1/2″ lengths, 5/16″ tall) | The open edges: both sides (11′ 6″), the top of the tile (10′) ÷ 8′ 2-1/2″ lengths. Or bullnose to match the tile. | An L-shaped metal edge (Schluter JOLLY or Schiene type) set in the thinset under the last row: a clean, chip-proof open edge. |
| **1 tube** | 100% silicone, color-matched (100% silicone, color-matched, mildew-resistant) | 21′ 6″ of joint (2 inside corners, the tub) + 15% at about 55 ft a 10.1 oz tube. Every change of plane gets silicone, not grout. | Flexible movement joint at walls and the tub. |
| **1 pack** | Contractor bags + duct tape (heavy contractor bags) | Old tile, board and mortar are heavy: half-fill each bag. About 345 lb of debris. | For rolling up and hauling the old carpet. |
| **1 sheet** | Plastic sheeting 9×12 (for the doorway) | Tape plastic over the bathroom door and the vent while you tear out and cut. | Covers furniture. |

### In Canada (1.52 m tub surround, tiled to 2.13 m)

Set to Canada, the Sheet works the job out again for Ontario: metric sizes, bag sizes, the frost depth and the code notes. It doesn't just convert feet to meters. The first lines:

- **5 sheets, Cement backer board 13 mm (3×5):** 5.3 m² of wall + 10% ÷ 1.4 m² per sheet.
- **≈225 screws, Cement board screws 32 mm:** A screw every 203 mm into the studs — about 45 a sheet.
- **1 roll, Alkali-resistant mesh tape 50 mm:** Mesh tape bedded in thinset on every board seam.
- **2 × 3.78 L pail, Liquid waterproofing membrane:** 5.3 m² of wall + 10% ÷ about 5.1 m² per 3.78 L for both coats = 4.4 L; the cheaper mix of pails.
- **1 roll, Membrane reinforcing fabric:** 8.18 m of corners, seams at the tub and around the niche: fabric bedded in the first coat.
- **1, Roller covers 230 mm:** Rolls the membrane on; a brush does the corners.

## The steps, in order

> **DIY OK: you can do this yourself with standard tools.** About 34–53 hours of work for this example.

1. Shut off the water at the valve or the main, then tear out to the studs and check them for straightness and rot.
2. Add blocking for grab bars, frame and set the niche.
3. Backer: hang ½″ cement board ¼″ above the tub flange, screws every 8″, seams taped with mesh and thinset.
4. Waterproof: bed fabric in the corners, the tub seam, the niche and around the pipes, then roll coat 1; once it changes color, roll coat 2 crosswise — each 50–60 wet mils, up to the top of the tile.
5. Set tile: the walls from a level ledger one row up from the tub, with a ¼″ × ¼″ square notch; leave ⅛″ at every change of plane.
6. Grout: after 24 h, pack the joints with cement grout and clean the haze; keep grout out of the corners and the tub joint.
7. Caulk: silicone every inside corner and the tub joint.
8. Seal: once it has cured, seal the grout (see the bag); trim plates and the shower head back on.

## Tools (26)

Must-have tools first, then the ones that help and the ones to rent for the day.

| Tool | Need | Why |
|---|---|---|
| **Notched trowel** | **Must have** | ¼″ × ¼″ square notch |
| **Margin trowel** | **Must have** | Narrow flat trowel for mixing and back-buttering. |
| **½″ drill + mixing paddle** | **Must have** | Thinset mixed by hand stays lumpy |
| **5-gal buckets (2)** | **Must have** | Two: one to mix, one to rinse |
| **Grout float** | **Must have** | Rubber float that packs grout into joints. |
| **Grout sponges + 2 buckets** | **Must have** | Cleans haze. One bucket to rinse, one of clean water. |
| **4-ft level** | **Must have** | The ledger line and plumb walls |
| **Cross-line laser level** | Good to have | One level line around all three walls |
| **Straightedge (6 ft)** | **Must have** | Checks the walls are flat before the tile goes up |
| **Cement-board scoring knife** | **Must have** | Scores and snaps cement board |
| **Utility knife + blades** | **Must have** | Scores drywall and vinyl plank, trims pad. Swap blades often. |
| **Cordless drill/driver** | **Must have** | Screws the backer off |
| **Hole saw kit** | **Must have** | Clean holes in the backer for the valve and pipes |
| **9″ roller frame** | **Must have** | Rolls the membrane on |
| **Wet-film thickness gauge** | Good to have | Checks each coat is thick enough |
| **Wet tile saw** | Rent | Clean cuts in porcelain, and the notches around the valve |
| **Tile snap cutter** | **Must have** | Fast straight cuts |
| **Diamond hole bits (tile)** | **Must have** | Round holes for the valve, the spout and the shower arm |
| **Caulk gun** | **Must have** | Dispenses caulk and adhesive. |
| **Demolition hammer** | Good to have | Breaks old tile and mortar off fast |
| **Pry bar** | **Must have** | Pulls the old board off the studs |
| **Shop vac** | **Must have** | Dust and debris |
| **Knee pads** | **Must have** | Flooring and tile are all knees. |
| **Safety glasses** | **Must have** | Every cut, every nail, every time. |
| **Work gloves** | **Must have** | Thinset and grout are caustic |
| **Half-face respirator (P100)** | **Must have** | Silica dust from cutting and demolition |

## Mistakes and how the math works

### Mistakes that cost a callback or a second trip

- **Drywall behind the tile:** Even green board turns to mush behind shower tile. Cement-type backer, or foam board, with a membrane.
- **Two vapor barriers:** Poly behind the board and a membrane in front trap water in the board. One or the other.
- **Membrane too thin:** A liquid membrane only works at full thickness: two coats, checked with a wet-film gauge or the color change.
- **Grout in the corners:** Changes of plane move and crack grout. Silicone in every corner and at the tub.
- **Tile over the tub flange:** The backer and tile stop just above the flange, and the joint gets silicone — tile pushed onto the flange cracks and leaks.

### What the calculator assumes

- Tub surround: the tile starts at the tub’s rim, taken as 15″ above the floor.
- Backer: ½″ cement board in 3×5 sheets (15 sq ft), +10%, a screw every 8″; foam board ½″ × 32″ × 48″, +10%.
- Liquid membrane: about 55 sq ft per gallon for both coats at 50–60 wet mils (RedGard), +10%. Sheet membrane: +15% for the 2″ overlaps and corners.
- Tile: +10% for cuts (15% for large format), + 2 spares; mosaic floor sheets +15%. Niche returns about 1.5 sq ft each.
- Thinset per 50 lb bag: about 95 sq ft with a V-notch, 80 sq ft with ¼″ × ¼″, 40 sq ft with ½″ × ½″, +20% back-buttering; unmodified over sheet membranes and foam board.
- Grout: joint volume from the tile size, joint and thickness, ≈ 0.065 lb per cu in, +15%.
- Silicone: about 55 ft a 10.1 oz tube at a 3/16″ bead (DAP), +15%.

## Code, permits and safety

The Sheet sets its code notes for the job's state or province. These are New Jersey's and Ontario's; the [code reference](https://studsheet.com/codes) has more. Always confirm with your building department.

- **Wet walls: what the code asks:** IRC R307.2 (R327 in the 2024 IRC): in showers and at tubs with showers, the walls get a smooth, nonabsorbent surface to at least 6 ft above the floor. IRC R702.4.2: behind tile in tub and shower areas, cement, fiber-cement or glass-mat gypsum backer — not drywall, even moisture-resistant drywall.
- **Wet walls: the National Building Code:** NBC 9.29.2.1: walls in showers get a waterproof finish to at least 1.8 m above the floor, and around tubs with showers to at least 1.2 m above the rim. 9.29.10.4: tile around tubs and showers goes over moisture-resistant backing. 9.29.10.5: the joint between the tile and the tub is caulked with mildew-resistant sealant. Confirm with your building department.

## Questions

### What materials do I need to tile a shower or tub surround?

For the worked example, a 5′ tub surround, tiled to 7′, the Sheet counts 17 lines with waste included, starting with cement backer board ½″ (3×5) (5 sheets), cement board screws 1¼″ (≈225 screws), alkali-resistant mesh tape 2″ (1 roll), liquid waterproofing membrane (2 × 1 gal pail). Each line's math is in the table above. Put in your own sizes in the [shower tile calculator](https://app.studsheet.com/p/shower) and every line is counted again.

### How long does it take to tile a shower or tub surround, and can I do it myself?

About 34 to 53 hours for the worked example, in 8 steps. StudSheet stamps it **DIY OK**: you can do this.

### What tools do I need to tile a shower or tub surround?

26 in all. The must-haves start with notched trowel, margin trowel, ½″ drill + mixing paddle, 5-gal buckets (2), grout float, grout sponges + 2 buckets. On the Sheet you mark each one as owned, to buy or to rent.

## Ask about it

Stuck while you tile a shower or tub surround? Ask in the [Tile showers and tub surrounds group](https://studsheet.com/forum/shower-tile) of the StudSheet community with this Sheet attached. Homeowners who've done it and verified pros answer, and anyone can read it.

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