# Shed materials calculator

> 8′ × 10′ shed: 90 boards and studs, 11 sheets of siding and 1.11 squares of roofing, every board counted. A stick-built gable or lean-to shed: foundation, floor, wall framing, rafters, sheathing, siding, roofing, doors — every board counted, with the permit size limits where you live.

## What to buy (8′ × 10′ shed)

Every line shows the quantity to buy and how StudSheet got it: the spacing, the waste and the package size, so you can check it before the supply house or the quote.

| Buy | Material | How StudSheet counts it | What it is for |
|---|---|---|---|
| **2 cu yd delivered** | Crushed stone base, bulk (¾″ crushed stone, with fines) | 10′ × 12′ (the shed + 12″ on every side) × 4″, +20% because it compacts = 48 cu ft — about 2.8 tons. | Crushed stone with fines (¾″ minus), delivered in bulk from a landscape or stone yard. Compacts into a firm base. |
| **1 roll** | Landscape filter fabric (3 × 50 ft roll) | 120 sq ft + 10% for laps ÷ 150 sq ft a roll: keeps the gravel out of the soil. | Keeps soil from clogging the drainage stone. |
| **3 boards** | Pressure-treated 4×6 (4×6 × 10′) | 3 skids the length of the shed (10′), at both sides and the middle; ground-contact treated. | Skids or beams under a shed floor. Buy it rated for ground contact: it sits on gravel or blocks. |
| **9 boards** | Pressure-treated 2×6 (2×6 × 8′) | 9 joists 16″ on center along 10′ (8 spaces + 1), each 7′ 9″ between the rims. | Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors. |
| **2 boards** | Pressure-treated 2×6 (2×6 × 10′) | Two rims, the length of the shed (10′), nailed to the joist ends. | Treated against rot — for wood touching concrete or outdoors. |
| **3 sheets** | Subfloor ¾″ tongue-and-groove, 4×8 (4×8 sheets) | 80 sq ft + 5% ÷ 32 sq ft a sheet. Treated plywood or OSB rated for floors, long edges across the joists. | 23/32″ OSB or plywood subfloor panel, glued and screwed or ring-nailed to the joists. |
| **2 tubes** | Subfloor adhesive, 28 oz tube (28 oz tubes) | A bead on every joist under each sheet: about a tube for two sheets. | A bead on every joist and in the groove: a stiff, quiet floor. |
| **38 studs** | 2×4 (2×4 × 92⅝″ precut) | Walls 16″ on center, a king beside every opening and a backer at each corner, 7′ 8-5/8″ long: 34 + 10% for crooked ones and blocking. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **2 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | One under every wall: 10′ (× 2) and 7′ 5″ (× 2, between the side walls). | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **2 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 10′) | One under every wall: 10′ (× 2) and 7′ 5″ (× 2, between the side walls). | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **4 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | Two on every wall, the second lapping the corners. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **4 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 10′) | Two on every wall, the second lapping the corners. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **6 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | Cut from offcuts first: jacks under each header, gable studs every 16″, window sills and cripples. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **1 board** | 2×4 (2×4 × 10′) | Cut from offcuts first: jacks under each header, gable studs every 16″, window sills and cripples. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **1 board** | 2×6 (2×6 × 8′) | Two 2×6 on edge over each opening, 3″ longer than it (with a ½″ plywood spacer). | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 5½″. |
| **1 board** | 2×6 (2×6 × 12′) | Two 2×6 on edge over each opening, 3″ longer than it (with a ½″ plywood spacer). | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 5½″. |
| **4 boards** | 2×6 (2×6 × 16′) | 6 pairs 24″ on center along 10′, each 5′ 2-3/8″ (4′ 6″ of run × 1.118 for the 6/12 slope + 2″ for the cuts). | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 5½″. |
| **1 board** | 2×8 framing lumber (2×8 × 12′) | The length of the roof with the overhangs (11′), one size deeper than the rafters so their plumb cuts bear fully. | Actually 1½″ × 7¼″. Joists, rafters, rims and ledgers. |
| **6 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | A tie across every rafter pair at the plates (8′): keeps the roof from spreading the walls. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **12 ties** | Hurricane ties (truss or rafter to plate) | One at every rafter where it sits on a wall. | Hold the roof down against wind uplift; the truss drawings or the code’s uplift table pick the model. |
| **4 sheets** | Roof sheathing ½″, 4×8 (4×8 sheets) | 11′ × 9′ with the overhangs × 1.118 = 111 sq ft of roof + 10% ÷ 32 sq ft a sheet. | Plywood or OSB rated for the rafter or truss spacing; edge clips between framing at 24″. |
| **1 pack** | Plywood H-clips for ½″ sheathing, pack of 50 | ≈12 clips: one between each pair of rafters along every horizontal sheathing joint. | Hold the edges of roof sheathing together between rafters 24″ apart. |
| **4 bundles** | Architectural shingles (laminated) (3 bundles a square) | 111 sq ft + 10% = 1.22 squares × 3 bundles a square. | Two-layer asphalt shingles; most cover a square (100 sq ft) with 3 bundles — read the wrapper. |
| **1 bundle** | Starter strip shingles (about 105 ft a bundle) | 22 ft of eaves + 20.1 ft of rakes + 5% ÷ about 105 ft a bundle. | The first course at the eaves and rakes: its sealant strip holds the edge of the first shingles down in wind. |
| **1 bundle** | Hip and ridge cap shingles (about 30 ft a bundle) | 11 ft of ridge + 5% ÷ about 30 ft a bundle. | Pre-bent caps for the ridge and hips; about 25–33 ft a bundle by brand. |
| **1 box** | Roofing nails, 1¼″ galvanized, 5 lb box (1¼″, 5 lb box) | ≈449 nails: 4 a shingle, plus the starter and cap; about 700 in a 5 lb box. | Hand-driven shingle nails, about 140 a pound: enough for a small roof without a coil nailer. |
| **1 roll** | Synthetic roof underlayment (10-square roll) | 111 sq ft ÷ 900 sq ft a roll after laps. | Woven, tear-resistant underlayment that replaced felt; 10-square rolls, fastened with cap nails. |
| **8 pieces** | Drip edge (10′ pieces) | 22 ft of eaves + 20.1 ft of rakes, each run in 10′ pieces lapped 2″. | Metal edge at the eaves and rakes that throws water clear of the fascia. |
| **4 boards** | Exterior trim boards (1×6 × 12′) | Along the eaves and up the rakes: 42.1 ft. | PVC, fiber cement or primed wood at the corners and around openings. |
| **1 sheet** | T1-11 plywood siding panel (4×8 sheets) | 1 for the gables (16 sq ft + 25% for the angle cuts). | Grooved 19/32″ plywood: siding and wall sheathing in one, nailed to the studs. 4 ft wide, 8, 9 or 10 ft tall. |
| **10 sheets** | T1-11 plywood siding panel (4×9 sheets) | Panels 4 ft wide around the walls (2 + 2 on the ends and 3 + 3 on the sides), 9′ tall to run from 1″ below the floor frame to the plates. | Grooved 19/32″ plywood: siding and wall sheathing in one, nailed to the studs. 4 ft wide, 8, 9 or 10 ft tall. |
| **2 boxes** | Siding nails, galvanized (box) (8d galvanized) | About 60 nails a panel (6″ on the edges, 12″ in the field), about 600 a box. | Long enough for the sheathing plus any foam. |
| **2 pieces** | Z-flashing, 10 ft | At every horizontal joint — under the gables: 16 ft in 10 ft pieces lapped 6″. | Metal or vinyl cap over the top of the ledger: siding laps over it, water drips off in front of the ledger. |
| **4 boards** | Exterior trim boards (1×4 × 8′) | Two boards at each corner, 8′ 8-3/8″ tall, and casing around the door and windows. | PVC, fiber cement or primed wood at the corners and around openings. |
| **8 boards** | Exterior trim boards (1×4 × 10′) | Two boards at each corner, 8′ 8-3/8″ tall, and casing around the door and windows. | PVC, fiber cement or primed wood at the corners and around openings. |
| **6 boards** | 2×4 (2×4 × 8′) | A frame and a Z-brace behind each door leaf: about three 2×4s a leaf. | Framing lumber, actually 1½″ × 3½″. |
| **6 hinges** | Heavy T-hinge, 8″ (8″, heavy) | Three a leaf. | Strap hinge for a shed door: the long leaf screws across the door’s frame. |
| **1 latch** | Shed door latch or hasp | Holds the door shut; a hasp takes a padlock. | Holds the door shut; a hasp takes a padlock. |
| **1 bolt** | Gate drop rod (cane bolt) | Holds the second leaf down into the floor. | Pins the fixed leaf of a double gate into the ground. |
| **1 window** | Shed window, about 18″ × 27″ | Rough openings 20″ × 28″ — check the window’s own size before you frame. | A small fixed or sliding window with a nailing flange, made for sheds and barns. |
| **1 roll** | Window and door flashing tape, 4″ × 75 ft (4″ × 75′) | The sill, sides and head of every window. | Flashes the rough openings: sill first, then the jambs, then the head over the fin. |
| **1 box** | Framing nails 3¼″ (16d), box of 2,500 (3¼″ (16d), 2,500 a box) | ≈415 nails for the floor frame, the walls and the rafters. | For the framing nailer: walls, floors, roof framing. |
| **1 box** | Sheathing nails 2⅜″ (8d), box of 2,500 (2⅜″ (8d), 2,500 a box) | ≈350 nails: 6″ on the sheet edges, 12″ in the field, on the roof deck and the floor. | Wall and roof sheathing: 6″ apart on the edges, 12″ in the field (or as the plans say). |
| **1 box** | Connector fasteners (for the ties) | The hurricane ties take the short nails or screws their label names, in every hole. | Use exactly what the connector maker specifies. |
| **5 tubes** | Exterior sealant (paintable) (10.1 oz, paintable) | Where the siding meets the trim: about 25 ft a tube. | Siliconized acrylic or elastomeric sealant rated for outdoors; stays flexible as siding moves. |
| **2 gallons** | Exterior primer (stain-blocking) (1 coat) | 329 sq ft of siding + 10% for the trim ÷ 250 sq ft/gal = 1.45 gal. | For bare wood and scraped spots; stain-blocking so cedar and redwood tannins don’t bleed through. |
| **3 gallons** | Exterior house paint (2 coats) | 362 sq ft × 2 coats ÷ 250 sq ft/gal = 2.9 gal: rough T1-11 drinks paint. | 100% acrylic exterior latex for siding; the can lists coverage and the lowest temperature it goes on at. |

### In Canada (2.44 m × 3.05 m shed)

Set to Canada, the Sheet works the job out again for Ontario: metric sizes, bag sizes, the frost depth and the code notes. It doesn't just convert feet to meters. The first lines:

- **1.5 m³ delivered, Crushed stone base, bulk:** 3.05 m × 3.66 m (the shed + 305 mm on every side) × 102 mm, +20% because it compacts = 1.36 m³ — about 2.5 tonnes.
- **1 roll, Landscape filter fabric:** 11.1 m² + 10% for laps ÷ 13.9 m² a roll: keeps the gravel out of the soil.
- **3 boards, Pressure-treated 4×6:** 3 skids the length of the shed (3.05 m), at both sides and the middle; ground-contact treated.
- **9 boards, Pressure-treated 2×6:** 9 joists 406 mm on center along 3.05 m (8 spaces + 1), each 2.36 m between the rims.
- **2 boards, Pressure-treated 2×6:** Two rims, the length of the shed (3.05 m), nailed to the joist ends.
- **3 sheets, Subfloor 19 mm tongue-and-groove, 4×8:** 7.4 m² + 5% ÷ 3.0 m² a sheet. Treated plywood or OSB rated for floors, long edges across the joists.

## The steps, in order

> **DIY OK: you can do this yourself with standard tools.** About 47–73 hours of work for this example.

1. Check first: the size and height limits and the setbacks from your lot lines. Call 811 (NJ One Call) at least 3 full business days ahead and wait for the utility markings.
2. Pad: strip the sod 1 ft past the shed on every side, lay landscape fabric, then level and compact 4″ of gravel in two lifts.
3. Floor: skids level on the gravel, the floor frame square — equal diagonals — joists 16″ on center, the subfloor glued and nailed.
4. Walls: frame each wall flat on the floor — plates, studs 16″ on center, kings, jacks and headers at the openings — then raise it with two people, plumb it, brace it, and nail the second top plate across the corners.
5. Rafters: cut one pattern pair, test it on the walls, cut the rest; the ridge board, rafters 24″ on center with a tie across every pair at the plates, a hurricane tie at every rafter, gable studs to the rake.
6. Roof deck: ½″ sheathing from the eaves up, joints staggered, H-clips between the rafters; fascia and rake boards.
7. Siding: T1-11 plumb from 1″ below the floor frame, Z-flashing at every horizontal joint; cut the door opening out of the panels and keep the piece for the door; corner boards and casing.
8. Roofing: drip edge on the eaves, underlayment, drip edge over it on the rakes, starter, shingles with 4 nails each, the ridge cap.
9. Doors: build the leaves from the cut-out panel on a 2×4 frame with a Z-brace, hang them on T-hinges, add the latch and the cane bolt; windows into flashing tape, the sill first.
10. Paint: caulk the trim joints, prime the siding and trim, then two coats of exterior paint.

## Tools (32)

Must-have tools first, then the ones that help and the ones to rent for the day.

| Tool | Need | Why |
|---|---|---|
| **Circular saw** | **Must have** | Handheld power saw for lumber and sheet goods. |
| **Miter saw** | Good to have | Square cuts on studs and trim |
| **Speed square** | **Must have** | Marks the rafter cuts |
| **Framing square** | **Must have** | Lays out the pattern rafter |
| **Tape measure (25 ft)** | **Must have** | The red boxes every 16″ on the blade are stud spacing. |
| **Carpenter's pencil** | **Must have** | Flat, doesn't roll away, marks rough lumber. |
| **Chalk line** | **Must have** | Snaps a long straight line on floors, subfloors and ceilings. |
| **4-ft level** | **Must have** | Checks plumb and level over a long span. |
| **6-ft level** | Good to have | Plumbs the walls and corners |
| **Framing nailer + compressor** | Rent | Days of nailing go in hours |
| **Framing hammer** | **Must have** | Nails, taps and persuades. |
| **Cordless drill/driver** | **Must have** | Drills holes, drives screws, mixes small batches. |
| **Impact driver** | Good to have | Screws and the hurricane ties |
| **Sawhorses** | **Must have** | Cutting support. |
| **Clamps (2)** | Good to have | Hold stringers together to mark matching copies. |
| **Utility knife + blades** | **Must have** | Scores drywall and vinyl plank, trims pad. Swap blades often. |
| **Aviation snips** | **Must have** | Cuts the drip edge |
| **Step ladder (6 ft)** | **Must have** | Reaches 8-ft ceilings safely. |
| **Extension ladder (24 ft)** | Good to have | The roof, about 11 ft at the peak |
| **Square shovel** | **Must have** | Strips the sod for the pad |
| **Landscape rake** | **Must have** | Spreads the gravel |
| **Wheelbarrow** | **Must have** | Moves gravel, soil and block. |
| **Hand tamper** | **Must have** | Compacts the gravel in 2″ lifts |
| **Mason's line + stakes** | **Must have** | Sets the pad’s corners and level |
| **Line level** | **Must have** | A tiny level that hangs on a string line. |
| **Coil roofing nailer** | Good to have | Faster than hand nailing the shingles |
| **Caulk gun** | **Must have** | Dispenses caulk and adhesive. |
| **9″ roller frame** | **Must have** | Holds the roller cover. |
| **2½″ angled sash brush** | **Must have** | Paint into the T1-11 grooves |
| **Safety glasses** | **Must have** | Every cut, every nail, every time. |
| **Hearing protection** | **Must have** | Saws and nailers are loud enough to damage hearing. |
| **Work gloves** | **Must have** | Tack strip, block and lumber shred hands. |

## Mistakes and how the math works

### Mistakes that cost a callback or a second trip

- **An out-of-square floor:** Every wall and rafter after it fights the error. Measure both diagonals and make them equal before the subfloor goes down.
- **Untreated wood near the ground:** It rots in a few years. Skids, beams and the floor frame are treated; keep the siding off the gravel.
- **No Z-flashing at the joints:** Water runs into a horizontal panel joint and rots the edges. Flash every one.
- **Leaving out the rafter ties:** The roof pushes the walls apart and the ridge sags. A tie across every pair, at the plates.
- **Building in the setback:** Too close to the lot line, or too big for the permit rules, can mean moving it. Check before you dig.

### What the calculator assumes

- Shed 8′ wide (the door end) × 10′ deep = 80 sq ft; walls 8′ 1-1/8″ to the top plates (92⅝″ precut studs).
- The floor about 9-3/4″ above the ground (4×6 skids laid flat, 2×6 joists, ¾″ floor); the peak about 11′ 4-1/4″ above the ground.
- Studs and joists 16″ on center, rafters 24″; 2×6 rafters and 2×6 joists are typical shed sizes, not from a span table.
- Lumber cut from 8–16 ft stock: equal pieces in the length that wastes least, short pieces from the offcuts.
- Door: two leaves built from the siding, 60″ × 7′ 4-5/8″ opening; windows about 18″ × 27″.
- Shingles: 3 bundles a square, starter about 105 ft and cap about 30 ft a bundle (the roofing Sheet’s figures).
- Paint: about 250 sq ft/gal a coat on rough T1-11, one coat of primer and two of paint.

## Code, permits and safety

The Sheet sets its code notes for the job's state or province. These are New Jersey's and Ontario's; the [code reference](https://studsheet.com/codes) has more. Always confirm with your building department.

- **Call 811 first — it’s the law:** In New Jersey, call 811 (NJ One Call) at least 3 full business days before digging. Free. Wait for the utility markings.
- **Construction permit needed:** New Jersey exempts sheds only up to 200 sq ft and 10 ft tall (N.J.A.C. 5:23-2.14(b)8); this one is 80 sq ft and about 11′ 4-1/4″ to the peak. Ask your town’s construction office — or lower the walls or the roof pitch to stay under 10 ft.
- **Click Before You Dig:** Before you dig, request a free utility locate from Ontario Dig Authority (ontariodigauthority.ca) at least 5 business days ahead, and wait for the markings.
- **No building permit for this shed:** Ontario needs no building permit for a detached, one-storey storage shed of 15 m² or less with no plumbing (Building Code, Division C, 1.3.1.1); this one is 7.4 m². Zoning by-laws still set where it goes. Confirm with your building department.

## Questions

### What materials do I need to build a storage shed?

For the worked example, a 8′ × 10′ shed, the Sheet counts 47 lines with waste included, starting with crushed stone base, bulk (2 cu yd delivered), landscape filter fabric (1 roll), pressure-treated 4×6 (3 boards), pressure-treated 2×6 (9 boards). Each line's math is in the table above. Put in your own sizes in the [shed calculator](https://app.studsheet.com/p/shed) and every line is counted again.

### How long does it take to build a storage shed, and can I do it myself?

About 47 to 73 hours for the worked example, in 10 steps. StudSheet stamps it **DIY OK**: you can do this.

### What tools do I need to build a storage shed?

32 in all. The must-haves start with circular saw, speed square, framing square, tape measure (25 ft), carpenter's pencil, chalk line. On the Sheet you mark each one as owned, to buy or to rent.

## Ask about it

Stuck while you build a storage shed? Ask in the [Sheds group](https://studsheet.com/forum/sheds) of the StudSheet community with this Sheet attached. Homeowners who've done it and verified pros answer, and anyone can read it.

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